Double length sling anchor for climbing reddit. A couple of my thoughts.

Double length sling anchor for climbing reddit. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. Sep 1, 2023 · Although double-length slings are most commonly used to extend pieces of protection while on lead to reduce rope drag, quadruple or even longer slings are sometimes used to equalize multiple protection pieces into a secure anchor. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? I recommend a carrying double-length sling or a pre-built quad for multi pitch sport. e. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. It also makes for an easy way to to extend my It’s more efficient to build a pre-equalized anchor (with the same sling pictured) using an overhand or figure eight instead of tying two overhands on each side of your master point. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. Right now I only have been using double length sling and locking biners for sport climbing. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. My favorite part is when cleaning up an anchor, I can change the length of the PAS quickly. I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. 1x Metolius Alpine PAS, with locker. Cordelette, sling, or rope for anchor? Hey, I'm thinking about getting into trad climbing, so I am currently doing quite a bit of research. Hey dudes, I was about to buy some new double shoulder length runners (48 in/ 120 cm), but realized I had some accessory cord (6mm monster cord from… Nov 2, 2017 · These are often called “double length” slings as they are twice as long as your standard “shoulder length” sling. I can use a double length sling for any number of things on a multipitch while a cordallete is generally going to be used almost exclusively for anchoring so using a cord seems like good conservation of pro to me. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. You should not be depending on your anchor material to do that. Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. I will generally knot a power point in a double length sling or use two slings if the bolts are pretty symmetric. Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. If I was in your position I would use a double length sling pre equalized, or a single lengh sling with an overhand in the middle as your anchor. Again, both are girth hitched to your harness hard points, or in some cases, a locker on your belay loop, or two non-lockers opposite and opposed on your belay loop. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. The best personal anchor will always be Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. Don't do that. For double length slings (4'), anchor webbing and cordelette, many folks use a twisted rack. If it's for general anchor building - I've stopped carrying cord. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Then it's as simple as using that to extend my atc and backing up with an autoblock. Make sure you've got all the troubleshooting skills down. Welcome to climbing! Based on this picture, it looks like you wrapped two double length slings around the table leg, then threaded two additional slings through the loops in those, then finished with two opposed lockers. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? ice screw x 1 picket x 1 belay device x 1 pulley x 1 tibloc x 1 locking biners x 3 non-locking biners x 4 pre-tied prusik x 2 pre-tied foot-length prusik x 1 sling x 2 double length sling x 2 extra cordelette Certain items, like the pickets, we may hold off on and only bring 1 up for the group. Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. Multipitch I always clove hitch the rope. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. Take your double length sling, girth it to your harness. Slings are incredibly versatile, light, strong and A couple of prussiks or tiblocs, a couple of double length slings, a couple of pulleys, and some anchor building material are all you need. The gold carabiner looks like it should be rotated. The Petzl Connect- by far my favorite new piece of gear from Winter OR last week. If the slings are going to be loaded over an edge, maybe use thicker nylon slings and double up. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. By putting the knot 1/3 of the length out you should have plenty of headroom to clearly weight your rappel before disconnecting from the anchors. I find some usefulness in having the 240cm sling in case I need to use a huge boulder as the anchor (so the slings wouldn't go doubled around). I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. I'm a lady climber that does sport and trad climbs. Me and my partner generally make a sliding X with a double length sling and clove-hitch or PAS into a locker on the master point. One quad length nylon sling (grey) and two double length (blue) have never failed to rise to the challenge, and are way less bulky. Draws, a couple of lockers plus the one on your belay device, and a double length sling for building an anchor. Figure eights a little easier to untie than two oberhands, too. If you really want to extend a rappel, one shoulder length sling works great, or as Rockso mentioned just put a carabiner in the knot when you tie off a double length sling, making it easy to untie. I use a sling and a locking carabiner. Oct 22, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. Shock load would happen if one side of your sling broke. Rappel off this knot, use the rest of the sling to clip in to the anchors when doing multiple rappels. Ofc. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Rattlesnake point anchor help Just wondering if there are any fellow Ontario climbers here that have climbed at Rattlesnake Point and what anchor system/materials they bring with them. Do you actually need to set up tree anchors, or are you just basing this off a class you took? I don't know where you climb but most places have bolted anchors. A 240cm or 480cm sling can be handy when equalising trad anchors that may have three or more pieces and also for wrapping around a tree or rock when building anchors where other pro cannot be found. You're good. Maybe if I was going super light alpine I'd just use a dyneema sling but I'm not so it works for me. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be adjusted The 120s are also good for extended gear placements and are also the most common length for equalising sport anchors. Double the runner and get the stitching positioned towards the end before tying the first of two over-hand knots. having an extra sling has an advantage in other situations. I have read a lot of conflicting information regarding anchors. Just tie an overhand on a double length sling into a masterpoint and belay off that using a I haven't carried cordalettes for years. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. Depending on the situation I'll either use single length nylon slings or a knotted double that I clip into the anchors. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. However, doubles come into their own when building belay anchors, when slinging cliff-top trees, as mini Obviously clove hitches are more tolerant of the climber dumbing and letting a bunch of slack form. If you're going to toprope anchor only, it might be better to get a length of 10mm static line. Depends on the route and the rack. 3x Spare Lockers. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. 5 tech cord but more versatile. I love not screaming. a Redditor directed me to the HowNotToHighline YouTube channel. I forget exactly how you clip it, but it is very similar to the regular 2 piece sliding X. the ‘double-double’): The YouTuber suggested possibly using two Nice haul! Now you just need a couple more trad draws, a few more nuts or offsets (unless you climb south western US) 2-3 single length slings (for extending cams without wasting a draw, or anchor building) 1 double length sling for bolt anchors/misc. Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. Get some pear shape You're attaching your double length sling via both of your hard points using a girth hitch and then attaching that to one bolt at the anchors. k. The master point in the anchor pictured isn’t redundant, which is probably why the quad or pre equalized is preferred. ). If you don't have a grigri then a prussik on one of the other lockers and a single length sling for extending the plate. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Ive seen others use 3 or more but i prefer using a Really depends on the scenario. I used a double length sling girth hitched around a tree, locking carabinier and 25' of 1" tubular webbing for each of the two anchors. You'll have less room at your anchor and be less comfortable. I read somewhere that daisy chains can be better because the knot creates a stress point in the sling, but now I can't find the article. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. One deep rabbit-hole later I’m emerging with questions about two possible anchor designs which recognize knots in dyneema slings = 50% reduction in strength and thus seek to eliminate them: Anchor #1 (a. The length is given as the end to end distance, so the actual length of fabric will be double this. 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't Two Bolts One Sling I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. Get helmets. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). I've read that in the scenario in this picture (a sling used to directly attach to the anchor, without any rope in the system) a failure of the sling is quite likely if you fall. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. One-handed thumb adjustment to get the perfect length. I usually carry 12 shoulder length (2ft), 2 double length (4ft) runners, and a cordelette when I climb there. Warning: This technique only applies if you have safe access to the top of a cliff, where bolt anchors are often placed. The knowledge to use them in the appropriate situation is much harder to come by, however. One You can equalize a 3 piece anchor with a double-length sling in a sliding X. If your second falls, they fall on you and not the anchor. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A couple of my thoughts. It's a double length sling that I have bunny ears tied into the end to make redundant and I girth hitch into my harness. At most ill do 6 quickdraws, 6 alpine draws, 6 slings, and a double length sling. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. This anchor is fine. Do you carry Quickdraws? How Many? Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. For sewn slings that refers to the length of the sling, not the total length of the material. You don't need to mess with knotting slings, or doubling up to clip to 2 points. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. Bulkier than 5. Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. More if the route wanders. I prefer something I always knew to be called the "electricians coil". Cowtail the sling (120cm', or whatever length you prefer)to yourself via belay loop and attach the carabiner to the anchor point. , a couple spare non-locking biners for anchors or using all your cams - and learn to use clove hitches and rely less on the PAS. I use a double length sling and one locker for my PAS (it also incorporates my Belay device to extend the rappel and for redundancy at the anchor. . total cost for the locker and the sling was maybe $15? for building the anchor it depends on the route I am climbing but I have and use everything from two quick draws to a quad. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. For the length involved, you should not see much stretch. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. Some people use a double length sling tied to a master point (my preferred method), some build their anchor out of the rope, some just go directly into the chains with their PAS and a sling. Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. Any reason I shouldn't use this system? Mar 13, 2024 · Double-length slings provide a whopping four feet of extension and are more useful for rigging and anchors than for extending a single piece of pro. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. it all depends on the route I am climbing and how the anchors are For example I don't usually bring enough double length slings that I want to use two of them up at a bolt anchor. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. Love the Master You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. It does done stuff a sling doesn't do: I frequently clip to the anchor, weight it, and then adjust. Hm, I find in trad climbing that if the good gear placements are any significant distance away from each other that it's not really adequate to just have slings (even double length slings). That or a miriad of things a typical sport climber already should have with them. I like using a double-length sling to make a chest harness and hold up one of the ascenders. Keep slack out of your static anchors. You can carry fewer runners if you climb on half ropes, which come in handy in the Gunks for protecting your second on the traverses and are nice on some of the long raps. For alpine I'll sometimes take a 6mm one but it is substantially weaker. Method two is using two quickdraws and double backing them (clipping them in opposite directions) to yourself and the anchor. I have seen IFMGA guides use one double length runner to build anchors that supported parties of 3 plus a haul bag. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. On a multi-pitch climb, it's common for each climber to carry 1-2 extra long slings for this purpose, and from our testing, we think the Metolius Open Loop Sling I find cordellete easier to manage for anchors where a single 120cm sling is insufficient, as you can almost always make a cordellete work. For multi-pitch trad cordalettes, 7mm cord is pretty standard (17-22ft depending on preference). Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic In researching anchor designs, pros, cons, etc. My rapp system until this point has been to extend with a knotted sling and then attach an autoblock to my belay loop. This allows me to test my rappel before coming off personal. If you want redundancy (slings can get worn after a while) then put an overhand knot halfway up a double length sling. If you're only going to be at 2 bolt sport anchors, some people make a quad out of a 240 mm Dyneema sling. I'm that extra cautious climber that tries to go for redundancy in all things (and ends Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. Proper distancing from the anchor affects the entire belaying experience, but adjusting with other systems is basically a guess, and if you guess wrong you have to unclip and reclip, and sometimes retie. You can easily store this system on your harness. There's a lot more going on when you transition to rappel, for instance. Slings are incredibly versatile, light, strong and A double-length sling is the same thing if you choose to completely ignore the convenience factor and adjustability of a PAS it's always the right length, and fully-weight-rated no matter where you clip in. I'm asking reddits opinion on whether people prefer cordelete or slings when building anchors and why their preference leans that way. Something between 30 and 60 ft. If you really want to equalize two bolts try the Quad. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. As others have said. Nice and simple. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. 240 cm is plenty long enough. My rappelling method is as such: Girth hitch one side of double length sling to your harness tie-in points, put an overhand knot in about half-way up, and put a locker at the very end of the sling to attach yourself to chains I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. And it’s a dirt cheap and simple anchor: You only need four locking carabiners and one double-length sling (48 inches or 120cm). I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. 1x Rocky Talky. Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on multi-pitch rock climbs. Aaaand go enroll in a top rope anchor course. A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) 1x Grigri for lead belay, and most of my top belaying. The second overhand can be positioned about two inches from the other end of the doubled runner. Now tie a knot a third of the way out. Also, the locking I wanted to get the communities thoughts on this anchor system I use to clean sport routes. If you extend a piece four feet, you’ve added eight feet to your fall, which is a bit much for safe travel on most blocky trad terrain. If the anchor is out of site then use lockers or double and oppose non locking carabiners • related to above, I’d extend the gold cams sling so the carabiner isn’t touching the rock • if the cordellete is one loop there is no need to clove hitch the small cam on the left I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. But honestly, for simple top ropes that don’t require extension etc, you’ll Probably be fine with just quick draws. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. He sets up a rappel extension on a double length sling, clipping the atc around an overhand knot in the center, but it doesn't seem like there is backup if that sling were to break. Using the rope to anchor is super easy on bolts, too, if you’re swinging leads. Using a magic x will defeat the purpose of a quad (having ample space to clip in) but isnt un safe. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Headlamp lives on A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. My prusiks are 6mm nylon. Then on the other bolt, put a locker on and clove hitch your rope onto that locker. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Sometimes that means untying it and using a figure 8 on a bite on each bolt to get the right length, but for me, having that option makes the cordellete superior to a sling for anchors without uniform spacing. I would like to TR at rattlesnake and practice placing pro on the routes. If you want a cordelette for multi-pitch, I'd recommend 7mm X 20 ft. Cinch down the knot portion (bottom/left end in my video) and take up all the slack by pulling on the Depends on your local climbing area. And if the slings went doubled, girth-hitching would halve the strength. If you meet these criteria, i would recommend a double length (120cm) or a quad length (240cm) dyneema sling depending on the type of anchor you’ll make, with 3-4 lockers. He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? It's much harder to escape the belay. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. a. I tied a water knot on a bite followed by a finishing knot at each end of the webbing. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. A simple, fully adjustable lanyard to make anchoring easier, faster, and safer. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. In most cases, if you're asking if something is acceptable to use, it means that you still need more instruction. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more I use a nylon double length sling girth hitched through tie in points, overhand halfway up the sling, ATC goes on lower loop, PA locker in the upper loop, prussik on belay loop. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. The amount of stretch/energy absorption will not be significant and it's the climbing rope's job to absorb force. Multipitch climbers build anchors with their climbing ropes all the time - so there is little difference. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. Reply tinyOnion • Additional comment actions Himalayan climbers mostly use the cows tail setup with cord, while here in the US (Denali) the double length slings are used, one for the lobster claw and one for the ascender. Rope management is more difficult (especially if other parties are rapping to your station). This is more than strong enough to hold thousands of pounds. We also bring up a shovel and probe for the group. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. Very versatile. bbirjpp dunrb wbgbkwn akwx kjpsi hdgnf dbkc qgpx wfozjh rdql